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Glorious Ghana

On The Textile Trail In West Africa – 2010.

Magie and Bob spend about eight weeks a year travelling in West Africa –
researching and documenting textile traditions and buying for their small fair trade
business www.africanfabric.co.uk.  Between trips to textile and quilt shows in the
UK and Europe, they’ve managed to send in some brief impressions from their
most recent trip early 2010.

Ghana... When you step off the plane in Accra the heat hits you like a brick. The air
feels almost thick with humidity, and this is the dry season! So lesson one is
obvious: Slow down. Then slow down some more. And that’s exactly what we did
on this trip. With every stop around this fascinating and friendly country, we brought
things down to African pace.  Not only did we conserve energy – we spent a lot
more time with all of our regular batik dyers, bead makers and basket weavers.

In Daboya where we work with the local indigo dyers and weavers of the
indigenous blue and white strip cloth, it was great to just sit in the shade of the
mosque and soak up the atmoshpere, observing the village at work... Young
weavers arrived at their looms in the shade of a tree. They layed out their warp
threads, set up their heddles and started to work weaving 60 metre cotton strips,
the raw material for the local man’s smock. Young girls arrived with lunch. The old
men, retired weavers, leaned against the wall of the mosque, stitching the strips
together into smocks and chatting over the news on a transistor radio. A boy
brought us cokes. Time just drifted away. Eventually, as the sun started to drop
toward the tree tops, our taxi driver, who was born in Daboya, reminded us that we
still had to cross the river back to the car for a dusty, bumby 90 minute drive back
to Tamale. Reluctantly, we said good-bye to our friends in Daboya. Until next time,
that is.

In Bolgatanga in the far north of Ghana, our friend Okala took us for a long hot trek
out to his village, home to the weavers who make the wonderful baskets that we
buy for the African Fabric Shop. It was hot, almost 40C, but a blessed breeze blew
across the dry sahel.  We arrived at the village to find, well, nothing happening and
nobody around. We sat under the big baobab tree to get out of the sun and waited.

“Maybe nobody will come out today,” Okala said. “They normally work here, under
the tree. But today it is windy. Maybe to windy to work.”

“Windy,” we thought. “Without this wind, we would melt!”

After a while, a few boys arrived to join us. They started to split and twist elephant
grass for basket weaving. Gradually, some weavers arrived with thier partly woven
baskets.  Eventually, most of the village sat working and gossiping under the tree.
Once again, time just drifted away.


Creative Arts Safaris
fiona@creative-arts-safaris.com
Home and office is
Our Pukka Place Hotel
Behind Shyama Hospital,
Helloj Rd,
Pushkar, 305022
Rajasthan,  India
Phone
+44 792 442 4430
Global roaming
number with message bank if we can't
pick up- ring us anywhere, anytime.

+91 [0] 97 84 773 749 [Fiona]
+91 [0] 98 68 080 318 [Parveen]
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Textiles
Magie and Bob with their new signboard, painted in Accra.
Magie tries her hand at basket weaving, near Bolgatanga, Ghana.
Magie and Trish with smock
sewer in the shade of the
mosque, Daboya, Ghana.
Magie unpicking resist threads with Musa in The Gambia. Musa dyes
traditional Kola Nut and Indigo for us.