Journal - Creative Arts Safaris

Vietnam - ohh so many ways to enjoy you

Sun, 21 Dec 2025 00:30:43 GMT

Vietnam — Many Ways to Travel

Vietnam is one of those places that keeps drawing us back. We’ve been travelling here for many years, and each return offers something slightly different – not because the country changes dramatically, but because the way you choose to move through it shapes what you notice.

At Creative Arts Safaris, Vietnam has become a place where we explore more than one way of travelling. The destination stays the same, but the focus shifts.

One of our core Vietnam journeys is our longer full-immersion textiles tour . This is a deep dive into Vietnamese textile traditions, taking us into weaving villages and workshops where we spend extended time with artisans working in silk, cotton, brocade, and natural dyes. We look closely at process, pattern, and continuity, and how these skills are still part of everyday life. There’s a strong sense of lineage here – grandmothers, mothers, and daughters all playing a role – and the time we spend allows those relationships and stories to unfold naturally.

Alongside this, we also offer tutor-led Vietnam journeys , which sit as a separate category. These tours use Vietnam as the setting for a specific creative focus led by a visiting tutor. Vietnamese textiles, materials, and artisan workshops become the backdrop for a guided creative response, rather than the subject of a full cultural deep dive. Each of these journeys is fully hosted by our team, supporting the tutor-led workshops while Vietnam unfolds around us as the setting and source of inspiration.

We also run Vietnam journeys focused on art and sketching . Drawing on the road changes how you experience a place. You slow down, sit longer, and begin to notice rhythm, structure, and everyday moments that might otherwise pass by. Travelling with a skilled tutor offers guidance and confidence, but the place itself remains central.

What all of our Vietnam tours share is an unhurried pace. We don’t rush from highlight to highlight. We build in time to wander, to work, to talk, and to simply be where we are. Vietnam rewards that approach.

Looking ahead, we’re continuing to expand how we travel here.

Food will soon become part of our Vietnam mix, with journeys focused on cooking with locals, understanding flavour, and translating those experiences back into home kitchens. Ceramics is also on the horizon – time spent in workshops, learning processes, getting hands dirty, and allowing making to unfold alongside travel.

Each Vietnam journey offers a different way in. Some people are drawn to deep textile immersion, others to tutor-led creative practice, sketching, food, or clay. There’s no right choice – just different ways of engaging, depending on how you’d like to spend your time and what you’d like to take home with you.

Vietnam continues to be a place where creativity and daily life sit comfortably side by side. We’re looking forward to exploring it in even more ways in the years to come.

Go on. Cross the red bridge — there’s a whole other world waiting.

The Lady

Thu, 11 Dec 2025 21:36:07 GMT

Old friends...

Not all the “people” I visit are actually people - sounds odd, I know.

Every time I go to Paris, the very first lady I want to see is The Lady and the Unicorn in the Cluny Museum. She feels like an old friend, waiting quietly in her tapestry world.

Little is known about the lady - except that she was once found in a pigsty - and then Tracy Chevalier came along and spun a fantastic novel around her. I love that as a backstory. Honestly, so much of history is shaped by whoever wrote it down, not necessarily by what really happened on the ground… so why not go with the story that brings you joy?

Another lady I absolutely adore is the Medusa tucked away in the Basilica Cistern in Istanbul. There’s something wonderfully mysterious about her, half-hidden in the shadows, now watching visitors wander past.

Again, not a lot is known about her. It’s all conjecture, really. But, boy, she must have an incredible backstory. I’m just waiting for the day someone comes along and writes it down—because I’ll be first in line to buy that story.

When the cistern was built all those years ago… mid 500’s, they found her somewhere -no record of where - and set her there, upside down, to support one of the great pillars holding up the roof. The theory goes that turning her upside down would rob her of her stone-turning powers, being a Medusa and all. And yet every time I visit, I’m completely transfixed. I end up standing there like a statue myself, staring at her, wondering who she was and how she ended up in that shadowy, magical corner of Istanbul.

Just look at her face. You can tell this sculpture was based on a real, once-living woman. She has such power in her features - strong, beautiful, utterly compelling. She feels real. Oh, please… somebody, someday, tell me a satisfying story about her. I’m ready for it.

why and how

hello@creative-arts-safaris.com (Fiona Wright) — Thu, 17 Jul 2025 21:06:23 GMT

Rachel at Artizan and Creative PlaceMakers asked me to write a little about what I do.....

Hiya,

Rachel asked me to write a little about the “how” and “why” behind Creative Arts Safaris.

Sure, it’s a tour company - but it’s really the sum of all my past incarnations. I’ve been a Waldorf Steiner school teacher, an exhibiting artist, and a wandering tutor working with adult groups. And now, all that creative energy is poured into crafting journeys that are so much more than tours.

It all started about 22 years ago. I was with a group of textile people, sharing stories from recent trip to India, when someone said, “I want to do exactly what you’ve been doing!” At that very moment, I was bending down to pick something up - and I was so surprised, I fell over! Literally sprawled on the ground, I thought, Yes! I can do that. I love excursions!

Let’s backtrack a little. As a Steiner teacher, you stay with the same group through all of primary school. Around that time, my own children were growing up and becoming wonderfully independent. As a single mother, it was a huge moment - realising I needed to take a step back and give them space to blossom. But then came the big question: what do I do now?

I freaked out (as you do), bought a return ticket to India, booked two nights’ accommodation, and jumped into the unknown with no idea what to expect.

Long story short - it was fabulous.

The sense of freedom, the excitement of discovering somewhere totally new, the gentle chaos of it all. I was hooked.

So when I said, “Yes, I can do excursions,” it wasn’t just about showing people amazing workshops or beautiful places.

What I really wanted to share was that feeling of adventure - the kind that sets your spirit alight. That thrilling reminder that the world is a wonderful place, full of extraordinary people. And when you start meeting them, you realise we’re more alike than different.

I love a good look around - gorgeous architecture, beautiful spaces - but even more, I love eating local food, sitting quietly to watch the world go by, observing how people interact, and getting a sense of how their world works. Walk through a busy street and you instantly feel the rhythm of a place. Every destination has its own pace. If you don’t adjust, you bump into people or block the flow. But once you move with the local current, you’re in the groove - you’re in it.

What brings me the most joy, though, is meeting people and spending time together. Workshops are perfect for this. You learn something, gain an appreciation for how much skill and experience it takes to make it look easy, and you share moments - through words, gestures, smiles. It’s about connection.

By February 2026, I’ll have been on the road for 20 years, but my journey really began when I was six, flipping through National Geographic and making a mental list of all the places I wanted to go. Now, I get to create experiences full of gentle adventures and wonderful people.

I understand that not everyone wants to leap off a plane and “see what happens” (don’t worry - I save that part for my research trips!). But many people do want to go somewhere different, filled with little surprises and meaningful moments. So that’s what we offer.

We get everything organised: hotels in great locations so guests can explore, airport transfers, thoughtful details… and in between, I want it to feel like we’re a bunch of mates off on an adventure. One that’s filled with inspiring people, beautiful places, and heartwarming experiences.

Our world - and the people in it - are amazing. Let’s appreciate them.

Over time, I became we . Creative Arts Safaris is now a team effort, powered by a group of warm, enthusiastic hosts who share the same spirit of adventure and deep appreciation for connection. Together, we look after our guests - and the wonderful people we meet along the road.

Wild Creatures - Kooshtak

hello@creative-arts-safaris.com (Fiona Wright) — Sun, 29 Jun 2025 21:24:51 GMT

Wild Creatures - Kooshtak

Aren’t these guys wild?

They're called Kooshtak, and they’re shaped like both real and fantasy animals.

These little creatures are traditionally part of the Spring Equinox rituals, deeply rooted in folk beliefs and magic. Especially popular with Uzbeks and Tajiks, they’re closely tied to the celebration of Navruz, the Eastern New Year.

According to ancient tradition, their sound was believed to scare away an evil dragon - symbolizing winter. Winter in Uzbekistan- you really need all the help you can get to bring on the warmth!

Some also thought that their whistle could summon the wind and bring the rain needed to help the crops grow.

The best part? Very few people still make them these days, but we happen to know someone who does - and she’s invited us to visit!

Big win for the ceramics tour!

Join us 4 -16 April 2026

Joys....

hello@creative-arts-safaris.com (Fiona Wright) — Fri, 27 Jun 2025 21:55:39 GMT

Little Joys.....

One of my little pleasures after a trip was to write up an impression of what I found, how it all went... stuff that impressed me.

Life has been busy lately - satisfyingly so, but time to spare has been a rare commodity.

Nepal was full of surprises and pleasures.

Having lived in India so long I was not expecting to find somewhere so 'new' and different.

The Temples and Palaces were stunning- amazing- gobsmacking.... yep I really, really liked them! Just look at they quirky snake above - he sums it all up.

The food was delicious and so different in their use of spice and fresh produce - loved it.

The roads - I must admit were in a state - but a whole lot of highways along our route laying tar as we passed so hopeful for the next trip.

The misty mountains all around were impressive and the nature and wildlife spotting at Chitwan National Park impressive.

We passed a rhinoceros walking along the road, coming home from dinner. He was relaxed, the locals looked like he did it often and just looked on and laughed, you could see they were stepping off his direct route but they had no nervousness about them, just a polite neighbourly giving space.

Kerala & Benin

hello@creative-arts-safaris.com (Fiona Wright) — Fri, 08 Nov 2024 10:32:46 GMT

Kerala & Benin - a strange paring, I know

Kerlala nd Bening might seem strange to link but the ambience is similar in so many ways.

In the last few months I have been to both destinations....

Similar?

Yes!

Water and life lived on it and around it brings a sense of peace.... a pace that is slow and enjoyed.

Both places will fill your heart for a longing to stop and just appreciate the view and atmosphere.

The Stitching Project, India

hello@creative-arts-safaris.com (Fiona Wright) — Fri, 18 Oct 2024 07:01:00 GMT

Workshop experience

Sari selifes

Birthday surprise

Our cutting master Bulbir-ji also does birthday cakes.

How do you prepare for the Camino?

Sat, 12 Oct 2024 00:10:52 GMT

How do you train for the El Camino?

How do you train for the El Camino if you’re in your 70s and sat behind a desk for too many years?

One small block at a time.

Then two blocks.

Then, a mile, two, three.

It helps if you keep a training journal

(yep, just like you’re a real athlete, toss some arty stuff in there for fun).

It helps if you count down the days.

100 days until we walk.

99,

98,

And then, you’re nearly there.

You walk a bit farther.

You add a few hills to help build endurance.

You read about other walkers.

You imagine the walk--

A time to have long conversations with a beloved daughter (now fully grown).

With people along the way

With all those many people inside your head.

And then you do it.

Not the whole thing, as you dreamt in younger years.

Not even half.

But enough to appreciate topping a hill and rounding a bend

And finding that daughter waiting for you there

(or that person with whom you had a good laugh along the trail)

To appreciate the people who prepare your food

Who assist you when you need help

To exchange “Buen Camino” with others along the way.

To celebrate with the young and the old who are as relieved as you are to finally reach the top of that long, long hill.

To understand that there is great joy in a downhill turn and a cool breeze.

And in sharing just the beauty of moving along a path

With nothing to do but wander and wonder.

That’s all there is to it.

What are you waiting for?

Thank you Diane for your inspiration

Glorious Ghana

hello@creative-arts-safaris.com (Fiona Wright) — Tue, 24 Sep 2024 03:20:25 GMT

Glorious is the word- Ghana you always delight.

Very fancy this year- life jackets are the rule to cross the White Volta River.

All I could do was wonder at how strong the guy paddling us across was- he did not even raise a swaet and we were flying along

Enjoy the moment- Textile & Travel Sketch tours

Thu, 18 Jul 2024 04:30:00 GMT

Enjoy the moment.

Textile & Travel Sketch tours take time to enjoy the moment.

How is your day going?…

New Paragraph

The Best Way to Send Funds Overseas.

Tue, 16 Jul 2024 01:52:00 GMT

The Best Way to Send Funds Overseas

After extensive research, I discovered that the best way to send funds overseas is not through my fee-free bank account but via an online transfer service.

Bank-to-Bank Transfers

Initially, I preferred traditional bank-to-bank transfers for their ease of tracking. My bank offers a user-friendly, fee-free transfer service, which I thought was fantastic.

Exploring Other Options

However, I recently decided to explore other options, especially since many guests prefer paying with their credit cards to benefit from travel insurance.

NOTE Evaluate Your Bank’s Travel Insurance Offers: Before relying on your bank’s travel insurance, understand their deal and how to access it effectively.

My Choice: Wise.com

After comparing the options, I found that Wise.com offers significant savings on overseas payments. Switching to Wise.com will help me save a substantial amount over the year.

Happy days ahead with more cost-effective transfers!

NOTE

Clients have been using Wise.com for many years and happy with the product.

Check out their fees- they are transparent. They are the cheapest option, often, unless your bank sends without fees and gives a better exchange rate.

They allow you to use your credit card to make the payment, or you can pop funds into your wise account- which is the cheapest method.

Please Note if sending money to us, you must add our bank details when you list us as your recipient.

This is important– funds arrive within 2 days- there are no more charges

If you choose to send to our email address funds will take 7 to 10 days and further fees are cut getting it into our bank account- these fees will be passed along to you.

Wise.com payments

Let me know if you have a better idea.

I also looked at Stripe– an online payments platform.

This allows you to pay with credit card.

there are extra fees to use STRIPE which we pass along to you.

Stripe fees.

Finding the best way to send funds will make life easier and leave more in your pocket for your travels.

Check out our Calendar.

Wise.com payments

Let me know if you have a better idea.

I also looked at Stripe– an online payments platform.

This allows you to pay with credit card.

There are extra fees to use STRIPE which we pass along to you.

Stripe fees.

Finding the best way to send funds will make life easier and leave more in your pocket for your travels.

Check out our Calendar

Exploring hidden gems of Uzbekistan- we found them

Sun, 30 Jun 2024 21:11:00 GMT

Exploring hidden the gems of Uzbekistan

– we found them

Uzbekistan is full of hidden gems. It is a long narrow country and as you meander along amazing ancient cities unfold.

Join us to share an exciting Travel Sketching Tour in Romania

Wed, 26 Jun 2024 23:05:00 GMT

Join us to share an exciting Travel Sketching Tour in Romania.

What is Travel Sketching all about? It is about taking time to appreciate a place.

Taking time to sit and sketch also gives you time to notice and appreciate the rhythm of life, too

On our India Tour smell the roses.

Tue, 25 Jun 2024 06:13:00 GMT

On our India Tour smell the roses, Rajasthan is the most exotic introduction to India and an early morning visit to the flower market a…

The most delighted tea maker. This young guy enjoyed our enthusiasm for his ginger flavoured chai.

Seas of flowers, worth the effort of an early start, I was told.

The Magic of Türkiye and Soar Above Cappadocia

Thu, 13 Jun 2024 08:19:00 GMT

Unleash the Magic of Türkiye and Soar Above Cappadocia’s Stunning Landscapes.

Wow!

The Balloons over Cappadocia will be part of our Textile Tour if you are inspired to fly.

On the road in Romania

Sat, 01 Jun 2024 04:25:00 GMT

On the road in Romania.

Everything is so beautiful, I feel like I just want to gush about how much I love it all.

Bucharest Spring time.
Taking time to settle in, interesting to see what you remember and what you forget.

The beauty of the Church frescos is as luscious as I remembered.

Gardens, trees, and flowers are just as stunning.

I forgot about all the beautiful, forgotren old houses, I remember feeling like a kid, last visit and wanting to take them home and love them like you would a lost puppy. Not every desire is practical, I realise.

Beautiful old houses at the Open Air Museum, is a feast.

Number 1 Health Warning. Be like a local. Only cross the road at marked cross walks when the green man shows. No one wings it here. Local drivers are all practising to be Formula One Racers.

Off on a road trip today with @alt_itza looking for silk weavers. Happy days.

Carved wooden blocks

Sat, 25 May 2024 05:58:00 GMT

On the Rajasthan Tour there are hands on workshops- of course!

We visit @the_stitching_project and say make yourself at home.
We also offer the full workshop designer experience and say "Design your own block"
We need to start soon, so the designs can go to our carver Mr Satnaryan to be made then returned to the workshop to be soaked in mustard oil to harden them up.
They will be siting on the blockprint tables waiting for all our guests

Exciting? you bet

��There is still time to join us, soak up vibrant Rajasthan, look for tigers and have a textile studio of your very own for a few day
Link in bio. We hit the road in October.

Corvin Castle

Fri, 24 May 2024 03:51:00 GMT

Deep in the countryside of Romania is a castle that would do any fairytale proud.

Life has been a bit of a blur.
Fairytale castles WITH drawbridge and moat!!
Poppy fields
Hand grown, hand woven silk scarves.
Medieval Art Collection of Romania.
All stunning, my eyes and heart are so full, the rest of me is trying to catch up.

How proud- 8 generations of tradition in Agra!

Sat, 11 May 2024 00:59:00 GMT

Within koo-ee of the Taj Mahal, we must take cycle rickshaws through the Old City of Agra, to visit the workshop of a family who have produced fine jewel embedded embroideries for 8 generations.

I love throwing everyone into rickshaws to visit the gold work embroidery guys..... it just makes it feel like the most thrilling adventure to arrive this way and head deep into the bowels of the Old City of Agra- the wealth and splendour in their workshop has to be seen to be believed.

Kumasi Market

Tue, 07 May 2024 12:24:00 GMT

Kumasi market looking out- second floor is fabric heaven.

Sneak peek of market madness in Kumasi, Ghana.

So many beautiful fabrics to choose from, well worth a visit.

Why Istanbul?

Sat, 04 May 2024 01:21:00 GMT

Why Istanbul? Ohh why? I have popped into Istanbul a few times on passing….. got hooked. Reading Richard Fidler’s Ghost Empire really set me off. So much…

I've popped by Istanbul a few times over the years, stop overs as I was heading here or there....

The history surrounding the place, the Bosporus where east meets west.....the layers of civilizations, those walls that are still standing.

Reading Orhan Pamuk, Elif Shafak , Richard Fidler all set off my curiosity and as I was passing again, I decided to stay a while.

What a pleasure.

It takes time to grasp some things you may have noticed in passing and after repeat exposure you realise it is a 'thing'.

Disclaimer - I am not a crazy cat person, generally - let me say BUT they think they own the town and you are welcome to visit. As long as the food is out and you don't block their sun!!

The cats.... they live in Istanbul, the people of the city look after them. Most houses have cat and/or dog bowls out the front to feed who ever wanders by hungry.

Inspiration India

Tue, 30 Apr 2024 23:09:00 GMT

Inspiration India

Guests joining us on the Rajasthan Tour were asking if I can recommend any reading material to get ready for the trip. Ohhh…

Dangerous question... I love to read ��

Take a look at our inspiration page.

Top of a minaret, Samarkand

Sun, 28 Apr 2024 08:23:00 GMT

Top of a minaret, Samarkand

Some days You have to be in the right spot and say yes!

Megan and I were leaving the Ulugbek Madrassa.

Gujarat and Jaipur Tours in Review

Tue, 09 Apr 2024 22:08:00 GMT

I like to write a review after a tour- helps me summarize for myself what I found, let's you have a little insight into our travels too.

Ahmedabad, it had been too long. We always stay at The House of MG I think it is my favourite hotel anywhere and feels such a wonderful haven in busy Ahmedabad.

Interestingly they have just had a copy of the Constitution written on the front door- a much needed reminder at the moment in India

Every vista in the hotel catches your eye. They have a staff member whose sole job is to look after the Flowers! What a job.

On tour I always learn new things about the places we visit- which keeps it fresh for me.

The warm welcomes and hospitality of people astounds me. We always visit the Gods at the start of an Indian trip if we can- a very local culture thing to do. We visited the Swami Narayan Temple in Ahmedabad and just happened upon a woman who visits each Sunday- she introduced us to the Nuns that live there and then took us to the dining hall as guests for lunch. So kind and made us all feel special.

Then we buzzed around the World Heritage listed Old City of Ahmedabad in tuktuks.

There is a wonderful Stepwell we always visit and a mosque next door I always enjoy a chat with the Iman. He is only a young fellow and attained the position not long before Covid. Welcoming and friendly, but times have changed- he looked harried and there were a group of youth who were being disrespectful - a very sad state of affairs India.

Read the constitution guys, again you are not living up to it. Minorities are feeling nervous, like the world over for political gain politicians try and set up an us and them situation to divert attention from themselves.

.The Stepwell is a magical place, fun to explore and take Bollywood style pictures.

And on we travelled, so good to catch up with many long term friends- people we met at craft events and later visited on our summer holidays in Kutch and now take a tour groups to.

Our group really worked hard at "helping the local economy" and through our group chat and still making their way through their stash back home. They have a wardrobe with many great memories attached.

It is fun to let your hair down somedays- as bus therapy we tied these fine cotton scarves I got from our Bengal weaver and when we visited the Ajrakh printers of the Khatri family Sufiyan very kindly dyed them for us in his Indigo Vat [ isn't it great having mates with indigo vats at the ready?]

And we decided to do a bit of a Bollywood photoshoot out in the White Desert. Fun times!

There was a guy out their with sparkly local costumes and everyone got dressed up and shimmied for more pictures- a real hoot.

This beautiful Madrasa on the way to the batik man I have tried poking through the crack many times to see what was inside- lo and behold the door opened this day and we were all invited inside.

This section is where pilgrims stay when visiting the mosque. So kindly welcomed inside and our curiosity quenched. ��

Learnt something new at the Batik guy, Shaquil's place. When the cloth is washed it is always thrashed on a stone after- this thrashing actually straightens out the fabric and the edges sit flat. It does not need ironing after this.

We are new to textiles in a way at our workshop- after natural dying Praveen washes in a washing machine and hangs it out to dry- the edges are always crinkly and have to be ironed before cutting- this is the traditional method to fix that.

Hmmm

We have know Sujna Ben for years and taken workshops with her, always through Somaiya Kala Vidya,. She has taken their courses and really stepped up as an entrepreneur and is running classes from home. Fabulous to visit her, I can see how proud she is with her attainments.

We saw wild Asses on the salt flats of the Little Rann of Kutch and visited some of the salt harvesters. Everyone was touched at the challenge of their lives.

Danced in the evening at our Camp Site near the Little Rann.

The Sun Temple at Modhera is nearly 1000 years old, it is a place with a very warm and welcoming ambience. The sun always seems to be shining and it is saying come and visit. I know that sounds a bit fanciful but every time I go there I hear that.

We lived in a 1500 century Palace for a few days, chilled out, used the jeeps to visit the local sanctuary. You make a wish and put a terracotta horse under the tree.

Great place- so sad to see the government has decided to make it easier to access, and destroyed hundreds of horses as the move them and pave the area. Really what are they thinking?

Old Dadar, the gate keeper of the Fort /Palace loves to have his photo taken and he proudly escorted us around the village to explore all its nooks and crannies.
We had a great group of people to travel with-, some knew each other from previous trips others were newbies. I loved the way everyone folded in together and we felt like old mates very easily.

Thank you to the kind hearts of everyone.

One woman needed to sit up the front travelling, she was inclined to "help" the driver drive. I am usually pretty easy going with people BUT the one rule of the bus is always Let the Driver Drive, your help could actually be a big distraction.

I had to nudge once or twice then she said " ohh I do this at home" hmmm maybe it is not helpful and looking out the window and letting the driver drive is good for my anxiety and the drivers.

I got an email from her saying she has been on jaunts with her husband and he was smiling as he drove. It brought tears to me eyes. We can all have insights along the way- they help us in our life. It is good to recognise them. [ xx A good on you]

After Gujarat it was a quick flight up to Delhi to meet up with Leonie Norton and a group of sketchers and head to Jaipur.

I learnt a lot about Jaipur traffic- it is a pain to get around, patience is needed. Usually Jaipur is a place we buzz through for a few days and you don't notice it as much.

For another sketch tour it has some great opportunities but it would be good to spend a night or 2 at a country palace along the way..... always things to refine when arranging tours.

We have all have challenges in life.

It is your attitude and reaction to such things that determines their impact on you and those around you.

My yoga teacher says- lift the edges of your lips UP- it really helps with everything.

People teach you things along the way.

Lovely places to visit and some wonderful work was made

We visited the Elephant Village- interesting conversation about domesticated elephants. I learnt Government decree is that their will be no breeding allowed, so the old girls you see will be the last domesticated elephants once they pass.

Our girl was Rani, she was happy to stand there and be fed by her mahout, his kids came over and tangled around her legs, she was not interested in us until a camera came out and she posed.

We noticed that- and watched it happen Elephants are perpetual motion creatures but if you brought the camera up she would stop and kind of lift her face to you. Such a gorgeous girl - a delight to meet her.

Meet Rani- isn't she elegant in that pose?

Our palace in Jaipur

Lots of gentle interest in our sketchers- lovely way to meet locals.

There are lots of great places to sketch- look at that roof.

I knew we could not draw in the Taj, but thought I had found the perfect alternative. The sunset point across the river. Praveen and I did a reccy there in August, chatted the gate keeper and he was happy for me to sit and sketch at that time. BUT apparently in the crowds of peak season it is not allowed.

Bit of a grrr moment but it was noice to be part of an excited crowd watching the light change and make photos for later use.

Ohh well, we tried.

The colours, and the sunsets all add up to a romantic place to sketch and wander.

Saying sunset made me think of Sunrise and a jaunt to the flower market- so beautiful Our gang made this Chai sellers morning- cheers everyone for a great memory.

Have a cracker day

Mon, 08 Apr 2024 22:53:00 GMT

Have a cracker day I saw this on FB a few weeks ago.

Love it. It is my new mantra.

I added the “GO FOR IT!!”

Deep dive into Old Delhi

Thu, 04 Apr 2024 05:14:00 GMT

A deep dive into Delhi

A deep dive into Delhi crazy yesterday, my kind of place.
Gentle choas of packed markets and poking around to see what is there.
R&D for a Delhi Treasure Hunt for those who want to build their stash.

Electric tuktuks to bump through the back streets, the bazaar was wall to wall people with so many intetesting little shops.
Scissors, buttons, braid, gorgeous wedding outfits, the oxen had winter coats on, although it was a pleasant blue sky day.

So much busy life. It's fabulous to be amongst it all.

Sign up for our newsletter to hear more about it.

Stepwell

Thu, 28 Mar 2024 21:30:00 GMT

Stepwell Panna Meena ka Kund

At Amber outside Jaipur.
There is an Escher-like stepwell in Amber.
It was restored by the Jaipur Historical Society back in 2007 or 8 [ I think ] but I can’t find anything on Google.

I have been going back through old tour photos trying to see when the paint was fresh.

I remember it as quite pristine cream and white edges and climbing down to the wate
First photo is 2009
Next few a group 2015, later ones more recent.
It is developing a beautiful patin
Amazing older or newer….
We always fit in a visit if we are in Jaipur, the whole area around it is fascinating too.

Where would you sit to sketch?
Full on Escher look, or at an angle or at the ancient temple across the road, looking at a porpoise head that has fallen down?

@leonienorton_travelsketching
We'll be there soon.
Travel Sketching -Jaipur all ready to roll.
Feb 2024

To Do list- Ghana

Wed, 20 Mar 2024 04:59:00 GMT

The TO DO list is huge....
and like that question "How do you reach the top of the mountain?"
[ vegetatarian version of the elephant question you note?]
One step at a time!
Questions from interested travellers helps me prioritise the items on the list.

Where do we get our hands dirty in Ghana? A few ideas I came up with on this last tour need to be adde
*We make 2 m of batik waxed and dyed cloth with Esther
*We visit Oklah who makes glass beads and he does a demonstration- we just don’t have enough time to fire beads and let them cool. That afternoon we visit Agnes to make bracelets with glass beads we collect.
*Shea butter you are encouraged to get your hands in the butter to whip it- really hard work but we can try our hand at each step.
*Indigo they generally dye yarn and weave- NEW I am going to bring some scarves with me, we can tie them as we travel and I will ask the guys to dip them for us ��
I just checked and need to mention this on the website- I just found them at one of my weavers in India- they are beautifully finished and a way to play with indigo easily.

Brass beads again a hands on demonstration- try moulding wax etc but it takes too many days to complete the process.

I have a textile journal I am stitching using bits and pieces I’ve collected travelling- it is something I show and encourage guests in developing the idea for themselves.
I supply participants with a journal and a hand-out of ideas to use as they like during travels- some sketch and collect ephemera, some don’t
I find the Fante flags very stimulating for ideas for the journal- lots of proverbs stitched onto the flags. We hope to visit them again.
We did raid the scrap heap at Global Mamas last year and many of us went home and made a garment with the offcuts. See my dress :)

Updating website now- link in bio
Yellow scarf dyed in Vietnam.... indigo ones on recent Gujarat tour.... can't wait to dip in Ghana

“Helping the local economy”

Thu, 01 Feb 2024 00:32:00 GMT

“Helping the local economy” It is what we do, along with a lot of laughs and enjoyable interactions. Slow Travel at its best.

Romanian Painting

Sat, 06 Jan 2024 00:58:00 GMT

Romanian Painting I woke up this morning with dreams still in my eyes of luscious Romanian mural painting and chandeliers. Who dreams of chandeliers? But,…

Shekawati

Wed, 13 Dec 2023 23:40:00 GMT

I have been researching the history of Shekawati which sent me digging through old photos- it is always an area that has boggled my mind. Amazing old houses, so richly built and decorated, seemingly abandoned and falling into ruin.

Shekawati is a region in the northeast of Rajasthan.

It is semi-arid to desert. Charming summers with the temps getting up to 50' C- think a lovely 122'F and not a drop of humidity- some days it is hard to drink enough fluids to replace what leaves your body.

It might not sound like it but it is quite a magical place.

Its history stretches back into the mists of time, it was said to be part of the Matsya kingdom.

In Iron age times the kingdom stretched from the mythological Saraswathi River to the Chambal River which is in the east of Rajasthan.

The Saraswathi is a river now gone, but was said to be part of the Indus River system. The Indus Valley Civilisation prospered until the monsoons that fed the rivers diminished around 5,000 years ago and the Indus River Valley civilizations [some of the world's earliest recorded agricultural trading societies] were thought to have left cities and moved to more farming lifestyles about the time of climate change and drier conditions.

Thanks to wiki

Since the late 19th century, numerous scholars have proposed to identify the Sarasvati with the Ghaggar-Hakra River system, which flows through modern-day north-western-India and eastern-Pakistan, between the Yamuna and the Sutlej, and ends in the Thar desert. Recent geophysical research shows that the supposed downstream Ghaggar-Hakra paleochannel is actually a paleochannel of the Sutlej, which flowed into the Nara river, a delta channel of the Indus River. 10,000-8,000 years ago this channel was abandoned when the Sutlej diverted its course, leaving the Ghaggar-Hakra as a system of monsoon-fed rivers which did not reach the sea

I loved throwing in the bit about the area tracing its roots back to a civilization about 10,000 years ago, nothing like a bit of heritage.

By the 1400's it was basically a land of bandits, who made a good income pilfering from the overland camel trains that came through.

The Silk Road Trade Routes connected the Muslim empires, Europe and India and China via overland routes. Many of those trading with India came through this way.

Maha Rao Shekha Ji (ruled 1433-88)Maha Rao= big king, was the founder of the kingdom to be named Shekawati when he stopped paying tribute to his overloads in Amer/Jaipur and proclaimed himself King in 1471.

Through trade and taxes this dry desert kingdom prospered, due to the overland trade routes.

They traded opium, spices and cotton especially.

With the arrival of The East India Company many of the land routes were superseded by sea transport and so the traders moved to markets further away.

This area speaks Marwari and the Marwari became great entrepreneurs all across India from early 1820's onward.

The Marwari accrued so much wealth it was said at one point around 80% of all taxes paid in relation to trade in India came from Marwari hands.

On our Bengal Tour we visit a fine home and garden in Mushirabad built by four Marwari Traders.

Indians always remember the village their family came from, family members and memories will still be there.

Marwari traders started to build vast mansions back home.

The mansions are known as Haveli.

The havelis served as status symbols for the Marwaris as well as homes for their extended families, providing security and comfort in seclusion from the outside world. The havelis were designed to be closed from all sides with one large main gate

The construction of the richest havelis is rather ingenious.

There are shaded courtyards, one through the grand entrance gates where male guests and business would be entertained.

Often there were discrete screened verandas above so the women of the family could watch, perhaps report what they had seen.

Women lived in strict seclusion further inside the haveli around another courtyard which was generally in a two story complex.

The connection between Courtyard one and two would be through a twisty alley or chamber so their was no chance of anyone getting a glimpse of the women.

The ingenious part is it the construction of the outer walls.

In some of the richer havelis there would be two walls with a narrow, narrow alley between them something like eighteen inches- this created a layer of insulation keeping the sun's heat from penetrating the buildings.

How did they become painted?

I haven't found any written references but I guess if you build the biggest and best house around and the neighbours build something just as grand you have to look for a way to out do them and let everyone know how successful you are.

They started to have murals painted first the insides and then the outsides were completely covered in designs.

In some of the havelis I have visited it seems the Gods and their stories are at the top of the walls and then as you come down there are more everyday stories.

perhaps the star crossed lovers Dhola and Maru- Rajasthan's Romeo and Juliette tale,

Trains and soldiers referring to what was happening in the wider world.

Fascinating places....

Although some of India's wealthiest families claim Shekawati as the native village- families like the fabulously wealthy Birla's- times have changed and these treasures are mostly falling into rack and ruin.

Perhaps a Chowkidar= caretaker with a camp set up in one corner, perhaps a local family with their cows living inside what was once a grand courtyard.

My first visit to the area was in 2006. The only way to get inside was to be cheeky and knock at the front door and ask to be let in, if there was only a caretaker and you offered a 'gift' = bribe there was a good chance you could get inside and poke around.

2006- the 'gift' worked

Oh wow?? Oh yes.

Taken in 2006 in Fatehpur

Same place in 2018- the only improvement to see is the quality of my camera.... tried knocking on this beauty a number of times, never got past the Ladies [ Queen Victoria, actually] on the verandah- yet!

Thankfully today a few people are investing much love, care and rupees into restoring some of these places and their beauty is flowering again. Now seclusion is not the order of the day and you are welcomed to come and visit, perhaps stay.

Le Prince Haveli is a favourite - the amount of care and research that has gone into it's restoration is amazing.

Just look at the size of the place- imagine the painstaking work that goes into restoring the details.

The walls are frescos, pigment imbedded in the plaster. You can't use a bit of modern acrylic to fix them up, the colour quality is wrong and it peels off.

I look at the quantity of work and take my hat off to those with the heart to take it on.

Wonderful place to stay- there is even a modern dip pool out the back now.

Really sad to report, it appears to be closed now.

Thank you Covid, we were there just before it hit, hopefully it will re-open.

This blog has a wonderful interview about the Haveli and restoration- take a look. Great photos and info.

I think my favourite little corner of all these amazing places are the Chhatris of Ramgarh.

A Chhatri is like a giant umbrella dome on four pillars, used as roof decoration in Rajasthani architecture and often in memorials for the departed.

The Ram Gopal Poddar Chhatri Complex was constructed in the late 1800s. dedicated to the Poddar ancestors. The complex is maintained by the Poddar family and their priest (caretaker).

Flights of fantasy tucked away behind a wall in a sleepy little town.

Fascinating that it is believed that Ramgarh Shekhawati in 1900 had the richest per capita income in the world!

A town with eight centres of Sanskrit learning, patronage of the arts, architecture, building technologies, Vastu and Ayurveda, and great Vedic knowledge. It was also known as the ‘Doosra Kashi’! Kashi is another name for Varanasi, implying that this was one of the greatest learning centres of the world.

From an article by Dr. Shruti Poddar. I love the story of how the town came to be- makes the Chhatris seem even more amazing.

The rather small garden is just stuffed with different temples and monuments almost falling over each other. You can see where the caretakers Cow is housed in a beautiful temple. Needs must ��Just up the road, in an even sleeper little village is a full blown castle or fort!

It is huge, originally founded in 1768 there is the old part a fort with many newer buildings- think 4 story sprawling mansions built late 18/1900's spreading around it.

Due to large families and inheritance and the complexities of Indian joint families there are now 9 families who own sections of the place and it does not seem they are the best of mates.

The Thakur [title from Indian feudal times= lord] Mr Singh inherited the oldest part which really is a medieval castle. He told us he was a lawyer in Jaipur and had not expected to inherit the family title and home.... but there you, this is how the Gods wanted it.

There are some stunning old rooms, but not much modern at all, it is not a one person job looking after it or even just living in it.

Power lines are tacked along the walls, water is hard to get to the different rooms, toilets that flush were not a thing at the time of building.... Mr Singh and his lovely wife have had it open to guests for many years, their hospitality and kitchen impeccable in a crumbling but loved old fort.

The Zenana or women's quarters

The place is huge, if you climb up to the top of the roof you feel like you are almost in the clouds.

The stairs going down almost make you giddy with the Escher-like quality

Finding a fort out there in the desert is extraordinary, but even more boggling is the Sone-Chandi ki Dukan or Gold & Silver Shop just outside the ramparts. The murals painted on the ceilings are so fine it is hard to see them, you need a ladder. Note the more details a mural the more it cost to paint, so although they wanted to tell the story of the Gods, they also wanted to point out how well life was treating them. Apparently the trade was in opium which necessitated a gold store.

Think later Opium Wars with China- English colonial powers like to increase their chance of success by destabilizing populations with intoxicants. Some of the great Mughals and other noblemen were already known for their excesses, too.

Next to the Gold Shop is an old Haveli, it must have once been so beautiful and was renown for its soirees. It has a ballroom with Belgium Crystal Chandeliers, unfortunately now home to bats.

These are just some of the places I have poked through the whole area would take weeks to visit everything that is still there, even longer if knocking at front doors and 'gifts' could get you inside more of these sprawling, amazingly painted structures.There are lights starting to shine, recent googling shows up a few places that have been or are being renovated into boutique hotels- Yeh!

I can't even tell you where this is.... we were taking a back road, searching out an amazing Women's Enterprise we had heard of.... another story.

Anyway trying to find our way we were driving through what seemed like inhospitable desert when over a small rise this came up.

Stunning!!. No idea who built it or why, no one to ask. It was just a moment of Shekhawat magic.

By the amount of goat poo around it is obviously appreciated by the locals.

If anyone knew it was there I am sure many would drive by to appreciate it's beauty.

Sums up Shekawati region really. I want to tell you about it, but it would be nice if it was our well kept secret.

Yet being pragmatic, it is visitors' enthusiasm that will save it. Visiting and filling the beautiful boutique Havelis that are around will encourage others to love up more of the old beauties.

Progress, some of it is based on loving and looking after the beauty and creativity of our ancestors. They lived out here and lived well in a hot, hot desert before modern electricity and AC. What could we do with our buildings after looking at their methods?

20 years ago

Thu, 07 Dec 2023 01:48:00 GMT

My bucket list always has had Paris and Rajasthan at the top

[ I must admit I have become a bit of a tart and truly have now given my heart to quite a few places]

but 20 + years ago they were the ones.
I was a Waldorf Steiner Teacher- you stay with the same class through primary school, so when that journey draws to a close it is quite a big letting go.

I had been a single mother for many years and my boys liked to know I was at home when they were with their father, just in case they needed me. For the first time, at end of September school holidays, one said - "You know Mum, we're big enough now, we'll be OK if you want to do something while we are away. You don't have to sit near the phone"

No mobiles back then- did he imagine I stayed within hearing of the phone? What ever made him feel safe I guess.
Well what a shocker!

So much was changing all at once.

An important part of parenting is to step back and let them mature but what was I supposed to do? Forever I had been the class teacher and the Mum.

So, you know, freaking out as one might - I thought "Right, DO Something" and made a mad dash to get a passport, ticket and visa and head off to Rajasthan.

For the first time I had a little money in the bank, couldn't afford Paris but Rajasthan was a possibility.

I really did not have time to draw breath until I sat on the plane in Sydney heading to Delhi. Then I started to cry.

"What was I thinking?"

No time to plan it all out, I had 3 nights accommodation and lots of time in front of my until I had to be in Mumbai to catch my flight home.

Ohh boy, Delhi was shrouded in winter fog, all dug up putting the metro in- it smelt so different, it was so busy and foreign and such a buzz.

Poking around an amazing 3 weeks unfolded.... the wealth of crafts had me gobsmacked. Wooden blocks and block printing - ohhh wow. I had carved lino to make blocks for years, didn't realise there was a whole world of printing in India- I was in heaven.....

Long story cut short, I met Praveen that trip too.

I decided to base my Masters Exhibition on my experience of India in relationship to Far West NSW....

I won a textile award out of the UK and started travelling to teach textiles,

I never went back to school teaching....

I regularly exhibited my art

and a group at the textile guild I was a member of said that wanted to come to India and poke around getting their hands on things just like I did.

Well I had always enjoyed excursions as a teacher- loved working out adventures for my class, I could relate to that idea.

An exciting excursion, get your hands dirty doing things, see some amazing places, eat good food.

Creative Arts Safaris was born and our first tour took off in Feb 2006.

Rajasthan- A Tactile Textile Tour had all the things I loved in it.... lots of doing stuff- block print, tie and dye.... places, artisans/crafts have been added in, taken out over time.

I moved to India and eventually we had The Stitching Project Workshop... so hands on could get even bigger...

The excursion idea grew, I like the name excursion it suggests you want to learn something, ... old school teachers never die, they just head out on adventures!

Adventures- yes. Step off the edge, live a little.... yes you might want to freak out a little along the way.

I was so surprised when I burst out crying on that first flight thinking

"OMG what have I done?"

Shake yourself off and get on with it.

It will be fine.

Fine and Dandy from my experience.

Flower market- India

Tue, 25 Jul 2023 22:25:00 GMT

Can't beat a good flower market..
India has some delightful ones.
Always lots of roses- this is where you wish for smell-o-rama, India's roses are so beautiful.

Lots of marigolds for the temple

An obligatory car decoration point armed with lots of sticky tape to get cars ready for weddings.

Lively and fun, for the early birds we will visit Jaipur's flower market at sunrise on the Jaipur- Holiday Sketching Jaunt in February 2024 with @leonienorton_travelsketching

Come along and smell those roses ��.

Journal - Creative Arts Safaris

Vietnam - ohh so many ways to enjoy you

Vietnam — Many Ways to Travel

Vietnam continues to be a place where creativity and daily life sit comfortably side by side. We’re looking forward to exploring it in even more ways in the years to come.

The Lady

Old friends...

why and how

Rachel at Artizan and Creative PlaceMakers asked me to write a little about what I do.....

Wild Creatures - Kooshtak

Wild Creatures - Kooshtak

Joys....

Little Joys..... One of my little pleasures after a trip was to write up an impression of what I found, how it all went... stuff that impressed me.

Kerala & Benin

Kerala & Benin - a strange paring, I know

The Stitching Project, India

Workshop experience

How do you prepare for the Camino?

How do you train for the El Camino?

Glorious Ghana

Glorious is the word- Ghana you always delight.

Enjoy the moment- Textile & Travel Sketch tours

Enjoy the moment.

﻿

The Best Way to Send Funds Overseas.

I also looked at Stripe– an online payments platform.

Finding the best way to send funds will make life easier and leave more in your pocket for your travels.

Check out our Calendar

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Exploring hidden the gems of Uzbekistan

Join us to share an exciting Travel Sketching Tour in Romania

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On our India Tour smell the roses.

The Magic of Türkiye and Soar Above Cappadocia

On the road in Romania

On the road in Romania.

Carved wooden blocks

On the Rajasthan Tour there are hands on workshops- of course!

Corvin Castle

Deep in the countryside of Romania is a castle that would do any fairytale proud.

How proud- 8 generations of tradition in Agra!

Kumasi Market

Why Istanbul?

Inspiration India

Inspiration India

Top of a minaret, Samarkand

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Gujarat and Jaipur Tours in Review

Have a cracker day

Deep dive into Old Delhi

A deep dive into Delhi

Stepwell

Stepwell Panna Meena ka Kund

To Do list- Ghana

“Helping the local economy”

Romanian Painting

Shekawati

20 years ago

Flower market- India

Little Joys.....

One of my little pleasures after a trip was to write up an impression of what I found, how it all went... stuff that impressed me.